buy the best digital SLR you can afford
you then need a long lens and a mono pod and tripod
the faster the lens the better but the more expensive
i prefer Minolta and Sony as the anti shake is in the camera making for steadier hand holding and cheaper lensesBeginning wildlife photography?
Sounds like fun. Your best bet is an old SLR (single lens reflex) film camera like a canon AE-1. You can pick one up for about $25-$35 or less (lens included). Get a 50mm lens (50mm is how the eye sees things). Once you've learned how to operate it you can invest in a digital SLR %26amp; fancy lenses.
Don't waste $$ on classes, you can pick up a book (John Hedgcoe is a good author to check out) with all the info you need. Experiment with different shutter speeds %26amp; aperture settings as well as film speeds and types.
Wildlife photographers generally have fast zoom lenses like a 75-300 which enables them to hide from animals %26amp; still get close-up shots. The f-stop of a lens tells you how ';fast'; the lens is. In other words, a lens with an f-stop of 1.8 is faster than one with an f-stop of 3.5. It is faster because you can shoot at a higher shutter speed because your aperture can open to 1.8. You might have to shoot a slower shutter speed for proper exposure if you can only open to 3.5. Faster shutter speeds enable you to photograph the moving wings of a bird, for instance.
Camera store employees can be particuarly helpful in answering specific questions about how to shoot well. Check out your local camera shop when they're not busy %26amp; they should be able to guide you.
Have fun!
Starting out on a budge means that you must make compromises on what you can get. There's no getting around that.
Almost everyone is going to suggest digital technology. I understand that it's the ';way of the future'; but, film ain't dead yet and it is still an option to consider, particularly when film still has a greater dynamic range over digital sensors, and it's cheaper to start off with (you don't need a printer, a computer, programs for the computer, batteries and chargers, memory cards, expensive camera that is outdated in a year, expensive paper and expensive inks, archival issues, dust issues, etc).
Digital technology is over-priced and what you can get with $600 ain't worth it; you will get so much more with that money by going with film and you will learn more with a versatile camera than with an inexpensive digital camera and fewer lens capacity (you can't buy a good digital camera and a good lens with that kind of money).
So, let's get to the nitty-gritty. What you're going to learn with a film camera will carry over to digital technology. ISO, aperture, shutter speeds, depth of field, how to compose, how to crop, differences in lenses, filters, lighting, etc (a lot more).
You're on a very limited budget? OK, go to www.keh.com and look for the Nikon N80. This camera is the best camera ever made for learning! You can use it fully manual where you set the aperture and shutter speed and you can either focus manually or let the camera focus for you. You can use it on Aperture Priority where you set the desired aperture (to control the depth of field, to cause blurring on purpose to show motion or to get crisp sharp images) and it sets the correct shutter speed for you automatically; or, you can use it on Shutter Speed priority where you set the desired shutter speed and it will set the correct aperture automatically. And you can either let it focus for you or you focus manually. OR, you can select fully automatic mode where you press the shutter button halfway down and it focuses for you and sets the aperture and shutter speed for you automatically (or you can focus manually if you prefer). It also has three types of light metering: average (also called Center-Weight Metering), or Spot Metering or 3D Matrix Metering. The camera also has a built-in strobe light that is good up to about 5 feet (also great for fill-in light to prevent you from getting a silhouette of your subjects if they're standing with the sun or light coming from behind them). There's also an on-demand (along with other features) grid line to help you level the horizon in landscape or seascape photography. This camera is the little sister to the professional-level Nikon F100, and it has many similar features to it. It is the perfect camera for learning. It is also built like a little tank, and it is ergonomically built to fit your hands comfortably and you can easily locate all of the knobs, switches and buttons which are clearly marked. Oh, it also has a diopter adjustment lever for those with visual problems. It has a very large and clear viewfinder.
I would recommend that you get the the most popular and most versatile lens made by Nikon: the Nikkor AF 28-105mm f/3.5-5.6D macro zoom lens which you can use as a wide angle lens (28-35), as a regular lens (45-55mm) as a portrait lens (80-90), a short telephoto lens 90-105mm) and as a macro-photography lens! If you find this lens too expensive, then look for the Nikkor AF 35-105mm f/3.5-5.6D macro zoom lens which is as versatile and well-built as the previous lens mentioned and it is also a macro lens (make sure it says ';macro'; when you buy it... there's a non-macro lens, too).
Now, lastly, I will recommend that you go out of your way and get the lifesaver lens: the Nikkor AF 50mm f/1.8D lens. This little wonder will bail you out of many difficult spots when you find yourself in low light situations! It costs about $75-80 used.
You really NEED a long and ';fast'; lens for wildlife photography but you can't get it on that budget. What I suggest is that you get Nikon's Nikkor AF 70-300mm f/4-5.6D and and work on bright days and make use of the light as best as you can. Get a tripod, you WILL need it, too (something like the Sunpak ';Ultra'; 757B, cost: $79)(this is a very cheap but sturdy tripod).
It is important that you also get Thom Hogan's Book on the Nikon N80/F80; this is the foremost authority on the camera! You will be SO glad that you got it; it is full of tips and shortcuts and GREAT suggestions and fantastic explanations, too!
I will suggest that you get a UV filter for each and every lens to protect it from airborne dust and dirt and accidental fingerprints. It is easier to replace a $15 filter than a more expensive lens!
Buy only Nikkor brand lenses. Stay away from those crappy generics. Nikkor lenses retain higher resale prices than generics because they have superior build and superior glass formulas, which yield superior image details upon enlarging, as you will discover if you go with the generics (you get what you pay for).
I recommend that you take a Beginner's Photography Class at any YMCA/YWCA, YMHA/YWHA, Boys Club or Girls' Club or any college that offers photography classes through their Adult, Evening %26amp; Continuting Department. These classes are so well organized that what you learn in a few sessions will far outweigh what you can learn with several books in several months. Plus, you'll get feedback from your instructor and your classmates (this is not conducted like a high school classroom but more like an informal group of people sitting around listening to someone talk and give information, and you get to ask questions). It will be a lot of fun and you will be glad you took it.
That is what I will suggest. Good luck and best wishes.
I recommend the Olympus evolt e300 or e500. I have the 500 and if you look at my site under photography, and either LA Zoo or Balboa Lake you will find pictures I got with it.
http://www.silvaspoon.net
Under the cameras page you will also find links to deals on cameras. Another route would be to haunt ebay and use a sniping service.
I think the Olympus is as good as the Canon, and usually goes for slightly less money.
How about joining a local photography club and getting some advice from the members.
You can look at the difference between the cameras used in the club and decide which you prefer to work with.
You may even be able to pick up a secondhand one at a good price from another member.
Film or digital? Either way the canon rebel comes in both and is pretty inexpesive as far as cameras go.
I am not sure on what to advise you on this subject but this site will help you.http://www.outdooreyes.com/wildlifephoto鈥?/a>
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